Locally, we enjoy visiting Sullivans in Omaha, where you can take a
ride down their escalator and view an eclectic list of wines which rest behind
glass windows in a temperature controlled area. Sullivan sits on the first
floor of the Central Park Plaza, which was the original home of ConAgra, but
has housed a number of other business including banks, so the transition the
wine cellar has undergone is rather impressive.
However, our favorite wine cellar story happened a few years ago as
Barb and I were visiting New York City. We had dinner at the historic 21 Club,
and had a wonderful Sommelier (the wine wasn’t too bad either). In fact, the
young man happened to be a native of Kansas, so we had a wonderful conversation
about Midwestern wines.
So, at one point without hesitating, my wife asked if we could see the
wine cellar. The Sommelier was more than happy to take us into the bowels of
the restaurant where we stopped at what seemed to be an ordinary wall. Our
guide pulled out what looked like a hanger, carefully positioned it in a hole
that was well hidden from our sight, and a door opened to an incredible
menagerie of wines.
It seems during Prohibition, the 21 Club was a speakeasy. The story
goes that is was a very popular hangout for many of the city’s influential,
including a number of prominent politicians. Although raided by Federal
authorities on numerous occasions, the infamous wine cellar was never
discovered.
I can’t do justice trying to describe the smell and or pen a visual
image of the maze of wines that were before us. The bins were all well categorized
and labeled. On closer inspection, many of the labels had names on them. We
came across the Nixon bin. Apparently, the former president frequented the
restaurant, and had a certain wine he enjoyed with dinner. The wine was still
there, albeit a few bottles short of a case and rather dusty as it hadn’t been
touched for years. Right across from it sat Elizabeth Taylor’s collection of
wines, I don’t recall what sat in there, but I’m sure it was of vintage quality.
It was an amazing experience, that was…cool! To read more about the 21 Club
wine cellar, go to:
Keep It Cool ...
As I reflect on that story, it got me thinking about how many times
I’ve been asked what the proper temperature to store wine at is? Most experts
say that all wine is best stored between 45-60 degrees F., with 50-55 F being
the optimal range. This is true for the storage of both red and white wines.
The conventional wisdom behind this is based on history. For years in Europe,
especially France, wine has been typically stored in caves, where the natural
underground temperature is usually 55 F. This may be ideal, but not everyone
owns a cave to store their wine, and therein lies the problem. In lieu of a
cave, it’s best to have a wine cellar or a wine refrigerator to achieve those
ideal temperatures.
Controlling the temperature of your wine is vital for the health of
the wine. Wines age faster at a higher temperature, and heat is also chemically
bad for wine. You can tell by the color of your wine if excessive heat has
damaged it, because it will look brown. At a lower temperature, the wine will
also be damaged, but at a slower rate. It’s important to remember that
eventually all wines will go bad, however, by cellaring them at the proper
temperatures, we can hopefully squeeze out some more life.
However, the temperature your store your wine at, may differ from the
temperature it is served at. In my opinion, it’s better to serve your red wine
too cold than too warm. Served at a higher temp, let’s say between 65-75 F (or
higher), the wine loses it aromas and flavors. Personally, all I get is the
alcohol flavor, which I find less desirable. Ideally, I try to drink my reds at
around 55-60 F.
On the end of the spectrum, I would rather serve white wines a little
chilled rather than ice cold. Many whites will lose those beautiful aromas as
well their flavor at temps below 45 F. Ideally, to get the most out of the wine,
I recommend whites be served between 50-55 F.
If you’re not quite sure, a rule of thumb we espouse here at the
winery is the 20/20 rule. Put your red wine in the refrigerator for about 20
minutes before you serve it. With a white, take it out of the refrigerator
about 20 minutes before it’s served.
Now, having said all this, I have to be honest. In recent articles
I’ve seen, nearly 90% of wines never even make it to the storage part of the
deal. Most are consumed within 48 hours of being purchased. Many winemakers
realize this, and many of the wines produced in today’s world are made for
“quick” consumption. Also, it is my firm belief that wine is always a personal
preference. The temperature an individual wants to drink a wine at is a own
personal decision, and you won’t get any arguments from me on what you decide!
However, if you would like more information about the proper
temperatures for storing and serving wine, check out these great links:
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